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Darjeeling; Doorway To Heaven |
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The mountain top town of Darjeeling straddles a Himalayan ridge at about 7,200 ft, flanked by such majestic giants as Everest at 29,000 ft, dividing Tibet and Nepal, and towering like foreboding sentries at heavens’ gates. Dorje Ling or “Place of The Thunderbolt,” is steeped in a long history of tea cultivation, and British influence. Church steeples pepper the Darjeeling skyline, spinning images of Western-European hamlet, round those of Buddhist refuge, the way the Buddhist spinning wheel spins prayers of compassion for all sentient beings, as they dissolve the minds’ attachment to form. Quite literally, Darjeeling is the gateway to the Himalayas, and is home to the first guide who, together with Sir Edmund Hillary, touched down on Everests' summit in 1953.
Ricco and I arrived in Darjeeling after 5 days with a family in a "busti' or village, 45-minutes by jeep, vertically due-South of Darjeeling. Jeep “no.34” was imprinted on the hood, with a hip 18-year-old Nepalese driver behind the wheel, who navigates this treacherous bend-of-road every day as if by Braille. I admit to closing my eyes, and surrendering to faith on more than one occasion! “Aphote,” translated to Mango (if my memory serves), is part of the larger busti, Mineral Springs, another reminder of the British influence, and name where no translation is required. What we have found here in this mineral-rich area, is the prevalent use of organic growing methods, and sustainable practices being directed by the Darjeeling NGO, DLR PRERNA. DLR Prerna is committed to permaculture, influenced by a long-term commitment of Ricco, who together, may well bring Darjeeling into the bio-diversity limelight as a truly sustainable eco destination for education, and learning here in the eco-infamous Sikkim region.
Littering the verdant swales of tea-green, carpeted hillsides, are the most colorful homes I’ve ever seen, and excuse the cliché; it leaves one breathless! Ricco and I hike, and walk these hillsides of Aphote busti, visiting farms throughout, as Ricco and his friends point out the old tea estates built during the British occupation (See Places on tool bar). These are the “mono-cropped” tea estates now owned by the well-known tea companies of the West, whose non-organic, nor Fair Trade teas are so widely consumed by tea drinkers worldwide. These farms do not employ the use of organic, pesticide-free, and biologically infused soils that the smaller, locally owned tea farms are so fond of here: Nor do they espouse the traditional “spiritual practice” I encountered of filling manure cups with milk on the full moon, honoring the snake for a sacred reason of which I am not privy, as they infuse the mixture with their intention, and devotion to Buddha. This practice echoes that of Rudolph Steiner’s old, yet recently enlivened practice of Biodynamics, which many small farms now employ for its profound impact on soil quality to both vitalize, and enrich the crop with dynamic life for humans, and planet alike!
These villagers live a beautiful, simple and remarkably humble life. The kind I personally feel we would all do well to emulate. Sadly, and shockingly, I have just learned my ability to upload this diary has only been made possible in the last 6 months. Although I can get a cell signal on my cell phone, and call home to my wife as if I were running errands in town, Internet connection is not wireless, and 2006 is the inaugural year of electricity in Darjeeling! It is hard for me to refrain from launching into a rant, but just imagine what this will do to this extraordinarily pristine place and its people? I’d rather not thanks, but I will say, simultaneouse to this intrusion of modernity, Darjeeling is ripe to become a model of “sustainability,” as these farmers and villagers recognize growing food sustainibly, as one of the simplest ways they can support thier familes, thier region, and the earth that sustains us all.
The Dog has not slept well here in India, with its sounds at all hours of day or night, barking dogs among those that seem to follow, and keep me awake. Karma, they say here, is a destiny we must fulfill to absolve some past wrong or imbalance, so we might move to higher consciousness while we have human incarnation. Am I to greet the irritation of barking dogs with non-attachment as the Buddhist monks might advise, or what was that saying? Something like; “if you meet the barking dog along the path kill it?” Dogs or gods, what ever they may be, I pray they assit my journey, as I attemot to capture in visual medium this story, and maybe magically convey both the rich sound, and smells here in Darjeeling. Click on the tab "Places and People" on the “Heaven On Earth” tool to see some early images. We will have video, and additional notes by Ricco on "Heaven On Earth," coming soon if I can find an Internet café with electricity sufficient to maintain connection long enough to upload graphical content! |
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Heaven On Earth |
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Houston, We Have Landed in The Eco-Zone!" After a 48 hour trek, complete with three flights, three airports, surreal layover’s, and a 4-hour jeep ride along windy, pock-marked roads, I have connected with Ricco in the Northern-most Indian city of Gangtok. Gangtok, the capitol of Skiim, is touted as the "Ultimate Eco-tourism destination of India,” and home to roughly five hundred thousand bustling, and alive people: peaceable, and happy is my first, and strongest impression of these folks, nestled in the shadows of the awesome Himalayas.
Today we visited the Institute of Tibetology, a magnificent museum dedicated to housing priceless artifacts from the Tibetan culture: Human Skulls made into Tantric drums, Tangka paintings, and embroideries so intricate and elaborate, it begs the question: what transmission of The Sacred is imprinting on to my soul, through the lens of my eyes as I one-pointedly focus on their confounding imagry? As we walk the streets one cannot help but take notice, from rooftops to street corners, the Tibetan prayer flags cut through any site-line, evoking for me the only reference point I have; that of the colorful streamers raining-down on the streets of Manhattan, New York during a New Years day parade. Yet, distinct my from reference, these colorful streamers here in Northern India, are faded, tattered and wind-blown, indicating a more purposefulness to their streaming. Their beauty is not separate from the spectacle of beauty that is the landscape, offering a visual dharma that speaks of intentionality infused into life here. Not yet acclimated to the 12-hour time difference, with sleep interrupted by strange new sounds, and the familiar barking dogs which area clearly karmic, and very real. Who was I kidding; these dogs would not follow me were ever I go?
Ricco, and I spent the day with two permaculture students who generously shared their land, and homes with us. A feast of five striking flavors of food was generously offered us; the best meal I’ve had had since leaving home! "Uncle," as he was referred to, a retired man, was our host, his heart palpable in its delight over Ricco’s presence, and in our visit. We visited his urban garden, located on the outskirts of the city on a high terrace. Excited about applying permaculture to his urban garden, and his next project; to build a small hydropower device to power his home! Next, a taxi ride delivered us to a remote hillside area of Gangtok, where a family awaited our arrival, dressed in what appeared to be their “Sunday Best.” We toured their farm, which included a brilliant variety of beans, corn, pumpkin and ginger. Delighted to share with us their most recent addition; two worm bins for the inclusion of the rich worm castings into their garden, something Ricco taught them in his Permaculture class. The display of gratitude toward Ricco for his making this long trip, year after year, to work with them, was like that of “Uncle’s,” palpable in their mood, and the generous offerings: sweet chai with donuts. As we set to leave, a brother invited us to sit on his patio, and enjoy some yogurt: At this point, I was reeling from the pungent tastes, and smells, and felt certain were I to drink the yogurt I would regret it. Not wanting to be inhospitable, I looked to Ricco for wordless instruction, and noticed in him a hesitation to drink, yet without missing a beat, his characteristic humility, and refusal to indulge “personal preference,” took over, and he accepted, as did I, the much-needed “bio flora.”
This place is indeed Shangri-La, yet even here, in this place know for its pristine, and breathtaking beauty, trash is scattered across hillsides in heaps of inorganic debris. A compelling juxtaposition to be sure! An elderly man said that15 years ago there were no plastics, what trash there was, was organic, composting naturaly back into the earth. Now, packaged waste remains, with tits half-life too long to calculate, leaving behind its trademark of pollution even here. It is incumbent on the manufactures of goods to no longer ignore their waste, and this sight, and set themselves to the task of consciously creating goods with less packaging, while voluntarily choosing to internalize their waste, and not expect the consumer to “deal with it.” It is encouraging to see these grassroots eco-oriented NGO’s working throughout this remote region, and the sustainability science fair here, where young kids were so excited about creating solutions for pollution, water, and organic gardening! Off to Darjeeling for more discoveries in the eco-zone! |
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Darjeeling; Doorway To Heaven |
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The mountain top town of Darjeeling straddles a Himalayan ridge at about 7,200 ft, flanked by such majestic giants as Everest at 29,000 ft, dividing Tibet and Nepal, and towering like foreboding sentries at heavens’ gates. Dorje Ling or “Place of The Thunderbolt,” is steeped in a long history of tea cultivation, and British influence. Church steeples pepper the Darjeeling skyline, spinning images of Western-European hamlet, round those of Buddhist refuge, the way the Buddhist spinning wheel spins prayers of compassion for all sentient beings, as they dissolve the minds’ attachment to form. Quite literally, Darjeeling is the gateway to the Himalayas, and is home to the first guide who, together with Sir Edmund Hillary, touched down on Everests' summit in 1953.
Ricco and I arrived in Darjeeling after 5 days with a family in a "busti' or village, 45-minutes by jeep, vertically due-South of Darjeeling. Jeep “no.34” was imprinted on the hood, with a hip 18-year-old Nepalese driver behind the wheel, who navigates this treacherous bend-of-road every day as if by Braille. I admit to closing my eyes, and surrendering to faith on more than one occasion! “Aphote,” translated to Mango (if my memory serves), is part of the larger busti, Mineral Springs, another reminder of the British influence, and name where no translation is required. What we have found here in this mineral-rich area, is the prevalent use of organic growing methods, and sustainable practices being directed by the Darjeeling NGO, DLR PRERNA. DLR Prerna is committed to permaculture, influenced by a long-term commitment of Ricco, who together, may well bring Darjeeling into the bio-diversity limelight as a truly sustainable eco destination for education, and learning here in the eco-infamous Sikkim region.
Littering the verdant swales of tea-green, carpeted hillsides, are the most colorful homes I’ve ever seen, and excuse the cliché; it leaves one breathless! Ricco and I hike, and walk these hillsides of Aphote busti, visiting farms throughout, as Ricco and his friends point out the old tea estates built during the British occupation (See Places on tool bar). These are the “mono-cropped” tea estates now owned by the well-known tea companies of the West, whose non-organic, nor Fair Trade teas are so widely consumed by tea drinkers worldwide. These farms do not employ the use of organic, pesticide-free, and biologically infused soils that the smaller, locally owned tea farms are so fond of here: Nor do they espouse the traditional “spiritual practice” I encountered of filling manure cups with milk on the full moon, honoring the snake for a sacred reason of which I am not privy, as they infuse the mixture with their intention, and devotion to Buddha. This practice echoes that of Rudolph Steiner’s old, yet recently enlivened practice of Biodynamics, which many small farms now employ for its profound impact on soil quality to both vitalize, and enrich the crop with dynamic life for humans, and planet alike!
These villagers live a beautiful, simple and remarkably humble life. The kind I personally feel we would all do well to emulate. Sadly, and shockingly, I have just learned my ability to upload this diary has only been made possible in the last 6 months. Although I can get a cell signal on my cell phone, and call home to my wife as if I were running errands in town, Internet connection is not wireless, and 2006 is the inaugural year of electricity in Darjeeling! It is hard for me to refrain from launching into a rant, but just imagine what this will do to this extraordinarily pristine place and its people? I’d rather not thanks, but I will say, simultaneouse to this intrusion of modernity, Darjeeling is ripe to become a model of “sustainability,” as these farmers and villagers recognize growing food sustainibly, as one of the simplest ways they can support thier familes, thier region, and the earth that sustains us all.
The Dog has not slept well here in India, with its sounds at all hours of day or night, barking dogs among those that seem to follow, and keep me awake. Karma, they say here, is a destiny we must fulfill to absolve some past wrong or imbalance, so we might move to higher consciousness while we have human incarnation. Am I to greet the irritation of barking dogs with non-attachment as the Buddhist monks might advise, or what was that saying? Something like; “if you meet the barking dog along the path kill it?” Dogs or gods, what ever they may be, I pray they assit my journey, as I attemot to capture in visual medium this story, and maybe magically convey both the rich sound, and smells here in Darjeeling. Click on the tab "Places and People" on the “Heaven On Earth” tool to see some early images. We will have video, and additional notes by Ricco on "Heaven On Earth," coming soon if I can find an Internet café with electricity sufficient to maintain connection long enough to upload graphical content!
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